We went down to the dock early to make sure we didn’t miss out on ferry tickets and sat watching the dock boys working while eating breakfast and drinking coffee. There are a lot more black people along the Caribbean coast of Colombia so the physic has changed from Latino who are short, to big and tall and muscly. Needless to say I didn’t mind watching them carry the bags onto the boats with no shirts on. Before anyone gets outraged Tim has also enjoyed the beauty of the Colombian women and their unbelievable bodies so we are equal.
We were advised by the head guy to wrap our bags in plastic bags as it was likely we would get wet. We had read that this trip could get a little rough as we were crossing a bay to get to Capurgana. We were so lucky with the weather with it being so calm and I don’t think a drop entered the boat. There was hardly a cloud in the sky and once we got closer to the other side of the bay the scenery we could see was stunning. Lush forests leading to sandy beaches with crystal clear water.
We arrived to Capurgana and couldn’t believe that we got to spend the next 2 days here. The place is tiny with no street names or signs, as you just ask where to go. Once we got off the boat out hostel owner Luchio greeted us with our names written on a piece of paper and he soon directed us to a horse and cart as our mode of transport to the hostel. For us this was just the best but totally not unusual here as you can only get here by boat or plane so no cars. The trip was only about 300 metres but we couldn’t keep the smiles of our faces as we passed locals also on their horse and carts or push bikes.
We quickly dumped out stuff and asked Luchio where the best beach was because we were desperate to get into that amazingly inviting blue water. Instead of giving us instructions he walked us all the way to make sure we had the right spot. We arrived to an unoccupied beach! We had it all to ourselves so we picked the best tree, dumped our stuff and went for a dip. Just to really make it unbelievable there was a little rocky island off the shore covered in coconut trees for an idilic setting.
We spent pretty much the whole day there and after a quick shower and change went out for dinner. We could hear music not too far from our hostel so ventured in that general direction. We came across a park/soccer pitch that had plastic tables and chairs outside a few places where we sat down for a drink. Over on one side of the park, fenced off was the airport runway. Although it was fenced off there was obviously a way in as all the kids from the village were riding their bikes up and down it.
We then went and had a few drinks at a laid back little bar right on the water front followed by some delicious freshly prepared seafood from Josephine’s which is a little shack literally on the beach.
This place has really got to me and I am so glad we got to see it. It truly is amazing and different to anywhere else I have been. I know down the track this place will probably change into one of those glitzy Caribbean destinations of extortionate expense but I really hope it doesn’t. Yes it already is kinda touristy and has a few really nice hotels for rich Colombians but they are not the Hilton or Sheraton and are made out of painted wood rather than concrete. Therefore keeping a real small island vibe about the place. I am just glad that we got to experience it when it was just a tiny backwater Colombian fishing village that knew how to make an awesome mojito, you could lay on the beach without hawkers trying to sell you something every two minutes, shade was provided by the trees instead of cabanas and the taxis were horse and carts. S
Tim on the boat over to Capurgana. As you can see flat as a pancake.
A few from the boat nearing Capurgana. We knew then we were in for a treat.
Capurgana from the sea. Not that big a place really. From the shore the town only stretches another three streets back.
Tim was given shotgun. I had to ride in the back with the bags.
One side of the deserted beach.
As you can see the water is stunningly clear. The temperature was perfect too.
Just so relaxed.
Definelty on island time here. A few of the locals getting out of the midday heat on the jetty.
The beach shack Josefina’s. Where we ate dinner.
Can’t really get more picturesque than this.
A few shots from around town. Some of the streets were cobbled and others just dirt.
One of the locals with his catch of the day.
A beautiful sunset over the park. If you look closely you can see the runway straight ahead and all the kids riding on it.